"The Clouds"

Last night we set out on a two hour journey to Epidaurus to see an ancient Greek play. Yes, all in Greek! 

It was an experience.  So aside from it being 98 degrees outside even after the sun went down we sat in the ancient theatre where performances were performed who knows how long ago! The stadium was built in the 4th century. B.C.  Crazy.

The whole time I paid close attention- (trying to understand of course) and I'd say I understood about every 45th word...that's better than nothing though! ha.

It was a comedy. You'd be surprise how funny it was even though I didn't know what was going on. Watching the other people's reactions in the crowd was interesting and enduring to see them enjoying themselves, appreciating their history's form of entertainment. 

I should go back and read the play... but there were moments where I was sure I knew what was going on.  It is all about the body language of a person, I live for observing a situation on how someone presents themselves.  No matter what language is being spoken, laughter is understood by all.  And most other forms of emotion.  

It was worth the two hour drive on the winding roads through the mountains.  It was beautiful!

Conquering Athens

I know I keep saying this, but today I really felt like a local.

 Okay more than the last time I said it.


 This morning we had another semi-unbearable, heat of the sun site visit, to the Agora.  When our class/ field trip came to an end- the streets of Athens were our playground.  Shopping anywhere gives you crazy adrenaline to keep on going when your feet thought you couldn't go another step.

We roamed the streets, shopped and made friends with the shop keepers.  After snagging a quick frappe and hopping onto the metro for home, I realized how comfortable the day had been. Looking back I felt as if I was shopping in Jacksonville.  Localized.  It is the coolest feeling ever, the feeling of conquering the city. Everything is at your fingertips. Just a metro stop away.

My Greek is getting better and the people are actually starting to recognize my desire to learn.  The old man we made friends with in the leather shop taught me some new phrases today.  He also helped me "connect the dots" on how most of our language is from Greek. "80 percent of your language comes from Greek," he says.  Of course it does.  Reminds me of "My Big Fat Greek Wedding." Hilarious. By   the way we have watched  that movie on the internet here and our experience here  puts it into a totally different light.


But this goes to show that old Greek men do have a soft spot. Again it depends on who you meet but from discussion and some observation, most of the elderly keep to themselves in their all men cafes with their worry beads in hand.  But the deeper you dig; I have witnessed a smile or two and friendly replies after my attempt to greet them.

I've been told the Greeks live a hard, stressful life. On the surface you would never expect it- with the afternoon naps and frappes every hour, (pretty much)  it all seems anything but stressful.  But from the years of the suffering Greek economy it has taken a toll on the people as well.  So all their time and energy is put in to make a living for their family and all their free time is put into their family time.  So learning one thing from our one greek friend "Greeks are boring they only hang out with each other, they don't step out and meet people!"  Because they spend all their time embracing their family, loved ones and the people they have already put their time into.  Seems selfish but it's easy.

"Never enough thyme."

Basically time and family is precious to the Greek's so when there is time to relax, it's with the people they love.  The thought of introductions to new people can add stress that isn't needed for the Greeks. More time for building trust that is already embedded in their communities.  So they stick together.

Baklava

OKay so when you look up Baklava in the dictionary it will most likely say: heaven on earth, the art of swimming in honey or floating on top of flaky phyllo dough... okay maybe not but pretty close.

It is probably my all time favorite sweet here.  But I'm not gonna lie I still haven't found anything close to how my Aunt Rosanna makes it.  True statement.  Maybe it is just the goodness of having it homemade with love.  But it is all tasty; the nuts are finely chopped while swimming in honey between many layers of buttery, flaky phyllo dough.  I should learn how to make it here, so then I won't have to beg my aunt to make it for me every time I see her.  I know she loves it though.






Something that is also good that I have tried here is Halva.  Made of grits with fruits, nuts and probably some more honey in there, it is a weird texture at first but it's delicious too.

Speaking of desserts and such the Greeks tend to eat family style most of the time.  We were talking about the pros and cons as a group and they only thing is -if something is really popular at the table like fried zucchini flowers (haven't tried yet) and only three comes on a plate, it is unfortunate for the rest of the table! So ordering three of the same dish is the solution.  Also eating family style is probably healthier, I've noticed that by getting a little of everything you get to just the right fullness compared to eating an entire bowl of pasta myself=over stuffed and regretting it.

There should be more family style eating in America, I know there are select places and families do when making dinner at home, but the oversized portions at restaurants maybe contribute to the obesity crisis in some states.

One thing annoying about the sharing is sharing the bill as well - there are little to zero places that will do separate checks for a meal.  Talk about complicated for 8 people a table. But that's part of it all.

There's my food update for now.

 On to... art history site trips, checking out the Greek yoga life, and eating more baklava.

The Greeks and family time the other day

To recap from a previous post of the Greeks being "unpleasant" not my words by the way.  We passed by a man in a shop in the plaka the other day and he welcomed us in.  Usually we would keep walking but we entered.  He asked us where we were from and when the answer was obvious, his reply had been what I was looking for.


"The Greeks mix politics with the people of America. But then they wear American clothes, listen to American music, watch American movies but don't like Americans, it is all a misunderstanding!"  



Well that's just one opinion but still.


I still don't know what it is but maybe it's a stereotype of Americans.

"Greek affection is possessive."

Even though we are distant cousins through my aunt's husband's family, being related in anyway makes you family. Because of this the smiles grow brighter and you are treated as one of their own.   

After playing phone tag and facebook tag I finally got a time and place to meet my Greek cousin Katerina and her family.

 

It's a pretty cool feeling to meet up with family you haven't met before and who live is such a different place.  My roommate and I put our brave faces on and set on nearly an hour trek by metro for a frappe in her neighborhood plateia; the main square of the neighborhood, where the children play and the adults socialize about their day.  When we spotted her and her mother with her two boys, I knew.  At first glance the started out saying "You look most like..." and I finished for them, "Pia! We look the same!" "Ahh...yes !"  Pia is my cousin and their cousin all the same but I see her more often back at home.  This was the first moment of familiarity.

After taking 15 minutes to figure out the family tree we conversed about the connections of our lives. 

I hope we can meet up again in this fast pace time we have left here.  

Didn't see that coming

When I ventured to Omonia a while back (well it feels like it now) I didn't mention when we saw illegal immigrants lined against the wall surrounded by police men.  Arabs, Africans, Indians and other I didn't notice, but my professor said they were being deported. "Almost for their own good," then she explained the violence of the Greeks beating the immigrants to literally get out of their country.  "So they either stay here in a horrible life or they go back to their horrible life." This has been a problem in European countries for a while now, I came here expecting to see as many "gypsies" as in I did in Italy.  But it doesn't seem as bad here.

The scenario I really didn't see coming:

So apparently cute Greek cop=bad cop.

I was waiting at the bus station and so were these two Indian guys.  My friend noticed a cop car circle around twice and then they pulled over.  The cute cop, sorry he was, asked the two men for their passports and when the one friend or brother didn't have one, he took him by the arm into the cop car.

These were fairly well dressed men by the way.

The older brother (I'm assuming) has a look of sadness and concern as he asked the cop if he could come with them.  Of course not.  The man in the car- also looking of despair and longing, listened through the glass as the brother (I assume) said something along the lines of "I'll come meet you," or "I'll see you soon."

It was crazy to see all that happen in front of us.  Real life.

I knew I wasn't home sweet home when...

Happy 4th of July- today we  celebrated it right, a trip to Sounion to see the Temple of Poseidon. Then hit the beach! Where the water was cold and refreshing and the people were entertaining in their bathsuit(s) of choice.  I'll let you fill in the blanks.

I've recently had experiences and frustrations  annoyances that won't last...but happen on these kind of life changing experiences. After all its been said that life begins at the end of your comfort zone?

Greek post office experience:

So all we wanted was some stamps and in the end we were still stampless.

We are talking a 45 minute wait for people sending packages- I just wanted some stamps though, where’s the second check out? There isn’t one. 

So coincidently the kiosk outside this Hellenic Post office sells stamps too along with newspapers, snacks and all that stuff.  But guess what--- it wasn’t open yet at 9:50 in the morning. So we asked someone when they thought it would open- “10 am, I think” think being the main word, a nice guy said. Okay, it was 10 till we decided to wait it out. We are some patient Americans I’d say.

 Then it never opened so we asked a shop lady if she knew and she said, “Well it was closed yesterday…so maybe they are on holiday?”  TYPICAL.

So that is one thing about the Greek culture- they open shop when they want and close shop whenever they want for siesta time everyday or for random “holidays”.

Sorry everyone you might not get your postcards in this lifetime. I’ll try again.

Anyway the days are running together even more now but we are definitely in a routine. And that routine is non-stop movement and also movement swaying away from sitting down and studying! 

But things are also starting to come up that I’m missing from home:

 More than a few friendly faces when walking down the street.  People did say the Greeks were unpleasant people (hey it says "mean" in my travels in Greece memoir) and I didn’t believe her (the narrator) at first but now my opinion is it depends on the Greek. An example is the little things- my professor said when she used to live here in Greece and she hurt her leg, so she was on crutches – taxi drivers wouldn’t pick her up because they knew they would have to help her and put the crutches in the back and so on.   Can you believe that? A cab would sacrifice his meter pay to avoid the extra effort in helping someone.  Note: This isn’t generalizing the whole population of Greeks.  Not to mention the only Greek friend we have made so far happens to have the most negative outlook in general and on America, too.  Been one of those days.

But back to that extra effort, it is totally put forth in the U S of A. 

Free water.  I’m really thirsty these days and slim to no restaurants serve tap water. Alternative is buying the big bottles for the table.  I know it is like this in other countries I’ve been to but, being here with all these other thirsty people makes for spending more money or just being thirsty.  And drinks are just really expensive. Crazy. 

24 hour stores. Having regular store hours and no naptimes even though the quiet time is a good idea. But it stinks on the days where the near by grocery doesn’t re –open after quiet hours. No making dinner for you. 

These are just minimal frustrations  annoyances that occur whenever you are somewhere that isn’t home.

My friend had shared a quote that stated "Wherever it is that you may be, be there." Somewhere along those lines.

So here I am,  I'm here.

Corinth, Mycenae, Nafplion...checking it off the list

Yesterday was an early morning start to our busy/jam packed day excursion...of taking it all in!

First stop Corinth! Our professors have a friend who digs on the archaeology site and has married a Greek man and lived here for 25 years!  She showed us around like she lives there and she does.

After we walked up the hill and around the corner for tea and cake at her lovely home in the village!  Her three little Greek children were so adorable and they live in paradise.

Then on to Mycenae- may be on my list of favorites.

 We are talking bronze age ruins of burial sites- grave circles A and B. This is all dated back to the 7th century! The massive stone blocked walls- they had to have had a pulley system, I'm convinced, or cycloptic men.

When you get to the top (which happens in most places around here) the scenery changes your mood to content and peaceful.  I have seen a lot of sceneries lately and maybe they are all starting to run together (never) but these mountainous countrysides have something about them.  Not to mention there are fig trees everywhere but they are never ripe...

Then we ventured to Nafplion. A little beach town on the coast.  After a long lunch and an even longer walk through the shops we were about ready to hit the road again.

One of our assignments is to pick a cafe and spend 30 minutes observing our surroundings of the Greek culture.  My group picked a middle aged cafe where the more sophisticated but not old people hung out.  It was interesting to sit back and really see what goes on in a different culture.  While enjoying a frappe (of course) we noticed the Greeks' body language and how they spend their time socializing.

Tonight is Italy vs. Spain futbol.

Forza Italia!